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The short version
- A tech pack (technical package) is the document that tells a factory exactly how to make your garment: sketches, materials, measurements, construction, colors, labels and packaging.
- Factories quote, sample and check production against it, so a clear tech pack means more accurate quotes and fewer sample rounds.
- The heart of it is the measurement spec: each point of measure, a tolerance, and values for every size, graded from a base size.
- Sampling in China? A bilingual tech pack (English and Chinese) lets the pattern maker read it without guessing.
What is a tech pack?
A tech pack is a set of pages that describes a garment so completely that a factory can quote it, make a sample and produce it without guessing. Designers also call it a technical package, spec pack or 工艺单 (gōngyì dān) in Chinese factories. It usually starts with flat sketches and ends with packing instructions, and it becomes the reference everyone checks samples and bulk production against.
What goes in a tech pack?
| Section | What it covers | Why the factory needs it |
|---|---|---|
| Overview and sketches | Style name and number, category, fabric, fit, flat drawings of the front, back and details, with callouts | Shows what the garment looks like and where every detail goes |
| Bill of materials (BOM) | Every fabric, trim, label and packaging item, with composition, weight, color, placement and quantity per piece | Needed to buy materials and price the garment |
| Measurement spec | Points of measure, tolerances and the finished measurements for every size | The pattern maker builds the pattern from it; QC measures against it |
| Construction | How each seam is sewn: stitch type, stitches per inch, seam finishes | Decides how the garment looks, stretches and lasts |
| Colorways | Each color you'll order, with Pantone references or approved lab dips | Fabric and trims are dyed to match |
| Labels and packaging | Main label, care label and hangtag placement, folding, polybags, carton packing | Easy to get wrong, and hard to fix after production |
| Revisions and comments | A dated log of changes and sample feedback | Keeps you and the factory on the same version |
Why do you need a tech pack?
- Accurate quotes. A factory can only price what it can see. A BOM and a size spec turn "how much for a hoodie?" into a real FOB price. It pairs naturally with a request for quotation.
- Fewer sample rounds. Each extra sample costs time and money. Clear measurements and construction notes get the first sample closer.
- Something to check against. When bulk production arrives, you measure it against the spec and tolerances, not your memory.
- You can switch factories. A complete tech pack belongs to you, so another factory can quote the same style. That matters most for OEM production, where the design is yours.
How do you make a tech pack, step by step?
- Draw flatsFront and back technical drawings, plus close-ups of details. Illustrator, Procreate or a clean hand sketch all work. Add callouts for logos, pockets and trims.
- List your materialsStart with the main fabric (composition and weight, such as 400 gsm cotton French terry), then rib, thread, zippers, drawcords, labels and packaging.
- Build the measurement specPick your points of measure, measure a garment you like in your base size, add tolerances, then grade the other sizes.
- Describe constructionFor each seam, name the stitch type and any tape, topstitching or bartacks.
- Add colorways, labels and packingPantone references or lab dips for each color, label positions, folding and carton instructions.
- Send, sample, reviseSend the tech pack with your RFQ, review the proto sample against it, and log every change until you approve the pre-production sample.
How do measurements, tolerances and grading work?
Each row of the spec is a point of measure (POM), such as body length from the high point shoulder (HPS) or half chest measured 2.5 cm below the armhole. You give each one a tolerance, the amount the finished garment may differ, and a value for every size. You only need to measure your base size (often M); the others follow from the grade, the fixed change between sizes.
| Point of measure | Tol +/- | Grade | S | M (base) | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Body length from HPS | 1 | 2 | 68 | 70 | 72 | 74 |
| 1/2 chest, 2.5 cm below armhole | 1 | 2 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
| Sleeve length from shoulder point | 1 | 1 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 |
| 1/2 cuff, relaxed | 0.5 | 0.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 |
Example hoodie in centimeters, finished garment laid flat. Illustrative numbers, the same as the example in our Tech Pack Builder.
Always say how each point is measured: from where (HPS, shoulder point, waist seam), relaxed or extended, and whether it is a half or full measurement. Most sample disputes start with a measurement that could be read two ways.
Which stitch types go in a tech pack?
Factories use the stitch classes in the ISO 4915 standard. Naming the number, with the Chinese shop-floor name, removes a lot of back and forth:
| Stitch | Used for | Chinese factory term |
|---|---|---|
| 301 Lockstitch | Topstitching, pockets, wovens | 平车 |
| 401 Chainstitch | Jeans seams, waistbands | 链车 |
| 504 3-thread overlock | Edge finishing | 三线锁边 |
| 514 4-thread overlock | Seams on knits: tees, hoodies | 四线锁边 |
| 406 Coverstitch, 2 needle | Hems, cuffs, neck tape on knits | 双针冚车 |
| 607 Flatlock, 4 needle 6 thread | Flat seams on activewear | 四针六线 |
| Bartack | Stress points: pocket corners, belt loops | 打枣 |
What are the key tech pack terms in Chinese?
| English | Chinese | Pinyin |
|---|---|---|
| Tech pack | 工艺单 | gōngyì dān |
| Measurement spec | 尺寸表 | chǐcùn biǎo |
| Bill of materials | 物料清单 | wùliào qīngdān |
| Tolerance | 公差 | gōngchā |
| Grade (size increment) | 档差 | dàngchā |
| Base size | 基码 | jī mǎ |
| Proto sample | 头版 | tóu bǎn |
| Pre-production sample | 产前样 | chǎnqián yàng |
| Bulk production | 大货 | dà huò |
| Main label | 主唛 | zhǔ mài |
| Care label | 洗水唛 | xǐshuǐ mài |
| Hangtag | 吊牌 | diàopái |
Many factories that work with overseas brands read English specs, but a bilingual tech pack helps the pattern maker and sewing line, who may not. Keep sentences short and put numbers in the table, not in paragraphs.
What are the most common tech pack mistakes?
- No tolerances, so any difference in the sample becomes an argument.
- Measurements without a method: half or full, relaxed or stretched, from which point.
- Vague materials: “cotton fleece” instead of composition, weight and finish.
- Missing trims and packaging, which then get priced or chosen by the factory.
- No version control: changes made in chat messages and never written into the tech pack.
- Costs in the file you send. Keep your target price and cost sheet out of the version that goes to several factories.
Make your tech pack in English and Chinese
Our Tech Pack Builder lays out every section above, grades your size spec from the base size, and prints a bilingual PDF for your factory. Templates for tops, hoodies, pants, dresses, sports bras and hats. Pay once, no account, your designs stay on your device.
Frequently asked questions
What is a tech pack in fashion?
A tech pack is the technical document a clothing factory uses to quote, sample and produce a garment. It includes flat sketches, a bill of materials, a measurement spec with tolerances and grading, construction details, colorways, and label and packaging instructions.
What is the difference between a tech pack and a spec sheet?
A spec sheet usually means the measurement table: points of measure, tolerances and sizes. A tech pack contains the spec sheet plus everything else the factory needs, such as sketches, materials, construction and packaging.
Do I need a tech pack for ODM or private label?
With ODM or private label, the factory already has the design, so you mainly specify changes like colors, labels, packaging and any measurement tweaks. A short tech pack for those changes still helps you check the samples.
Can I make a tech pack without Illustrator?
Yes. You need clear drawings, not a particular program. Procreate, Canva, a template or a clean hand sketch photographed on white paper all work, as long as the measurements, materials and construction are written out clearly.
Should my tech pack be in Chinese?
If you work with factories in China, a bilingual tech pack (English and Chinese) reduces misunderstandings, especially for the pattern maker and production line. Keep the numbers in tables and confirm key points in writing.
What does grading mean in a tech pack?
Grading is how measurements change from size to size. You measure the base size, set a grade (the increment) for each point of measure, and the other sizes are calculated from it.
Example measurements are illustrative. Measurement methods and stitch choices vary by factory and fabric: confirm them in writing and approve samples before bulk production. SuanSupply is not affiliated with ISO, Pantone or any factory.